Enchanted Days in Vence

After we wandered through Italy, we found ourselves strolling the cobbled lanes of Eze, a storybook village perched high above the French Riviera. With its medieval stone passageways, cliffside views, and tiny artisan boutiques, Eze feels like a fairytale suspended in time.

Arriving in Vence, the Sweet Nest of Provence

From Eze, we made our way to Vence, a lesser-known treasure near the more popular Saint Paul de Vence. Once home to legendary artists and writers, Chagall, Matisse, Duffy, Soutine, and D. H. Lawrence, Vence has long inspired creativity and quiet reflection.

The 12th-century troubadour Pierre Vidal called it le doux repaire (the sweet nest), and Nostradamus declared it “Garden of Vence, marvel of Provence.” As you walk its narrow, winding streets, it’s easy to see why.

A Village of Grace and Character

The drive into town is not for the faint of heart. With its narrow, winding roads, our patience and navigation skills were tested. But the reward was worth it. Vence still feels like an authentic Provençal village, free from crowds and full of soul. Its poetry lives not only in its storied past but also in the everyday rhythm of local life.

Though it has expanded beyond the original medieval walls, Vence retains its character. Step outside the old village, and you’ll still find quiet corners, wrought-iron balconies, and timeworn shutters glowing under the Provençal sun.

Where to Stay in Vence, From Avant-Garde to Traditional

On a past visit, I stayed at the art-filled La Maison du Frêne, a chic boutique hotel curated by the delightful Thierry and Guy. Each room bursts with color, bold design, and contemporary flair.

This time, we opted for something more traditional: Auberge des Seigneurs, just across the street. With cozy furnishings in pretty French Indienne fabrics and a view of the hills, it felt like stepping into a gentle, bygone era.

A Full-Circle Moment in the Heart of Town

Years ago, after my mother’s memorial in Norway, I flew to the South of France. I spent an evening in Vence and dined in Place Clémenceau in the heart of Vence. Grieving and alone, I promised myself that one day, I would return with someone I loved. Sitting there this time, watching the sunset with my husband, I was overcome with a quiet joy. A promise fulfilled.

Dinner at Les Lavandes – A Provençal Feast

That evening, we had a lovely meal at Les Lavandes, where we sat outside in a courtyard that was so enchanting, it could have been a set from a movie. Every dish was vibrant, seasonal, and expertly plated. The service matched the elegance of the food, warm, attentive, and never rushed. It was the kind of dinner that lingers in your memory long after the final bite.

A Sunday Morning Market

On Sunday morning, the town came alive as locals poured out of church and into the farmers’ market. Stylish men and women greeted one another with kisses on both cheeks. We sipped lattes at a small café, taking in the scene, the scent of fresh bread, the gleam of ripe peaches, and the laughter of neighbors.

What to Do in and Around Vence

Whether you’re an art lover, nature seeker, or casual wanderer, Vence offers plenty of delightful experiences:

• Chapelle du Rosaire (Matisse Chapel): Designed by Henri Matisse in his later years, this minimalist chapel is a spiritual and artistic gem. The stained glass alone is worth the visit.

• Baou des Blancs Hike: Just outside Vence, this short hike rewards you with panoramic views of the Côte d’Azur. It’s a perfect morning excursion before a lazy Provençal lunch.

• Fondation Maeght: Located nearby in Saint-Paul de Vence, this modern art museum features works by Miró, Giacometti, Chagall, and more, nestled in a serene pine forest.

• Vence Old Town Shopping: Browse charming boutiques, galleries, and artisanal shops hidden along the cobbled streets inside the medieval walls.

• Wine Tasting at Local Vineyards: The hills surrounding Vence offer small, family-run vineyards where you can taste local rosés and reds in an intimate setting.

• Summer Jazz Concerts and Village Fêtes: If you’re visiting in summer, check the local calendar for open-air concerts and street festivals under the stars.

A Village That Stays With You

There’s something deeply resonant about Vence. It’s not just the beauty or the history, it’s the sense of peace, the brushstrokes of art and memory that infuse the streets. Vence lingers with you, a whisper of Provence you carry long after you leave.