Childhood Tales of Norway’s Arctic Mail Boats

Since I was a child listening to my mother’s stories about the boats that would weave their way through the fjords, bringing letters and supplies to the tiny northern villages where Santa “lived,” I had wanted to visit northern Norway. In her lifetime, my mother sailed on a Norwegian mail boat up to the Arctic Circle and Tromsø, but for me, it remained an unchecked box on my list of adventures.

Growing up with a Mexican father and a Norwegian mother, the magic of Norway was as much a part of me as my Mexican heritage. Physically, I feel most comfortable in Norway. Rain, snow, or days without sunlight don’t bother me. I see the beauty in its alchemy of nature, folklore, history, and the warm, gracious people.

A Holiday Escape to Norway’s Arctic Circle

This holiday season, my husband, son, daughter-in-law, and I spent Christmas in Bergen, then on December 26th, we hopped on a flight to Tromsø.

It wasn’t the iconic mail boat journey my mother spoke of so fondly, but it was a dream realized. For my son and his wife, Tromsø was special too — they’d gotten engaged in the nearby Lofoten archipelago the year before.

For my husband and me, this trip fit into our pact as we enter our sixties: to say yes to adventure unless there’s a truly good reason to say no. With our home under construction, why not go somewhere bucket-list-worthy? Why not chase polar nights and the Northern Lights?

Twilight Arrival into the Arctic Circle

The descent into Tromsø alone was worth the price of the airfare in itself. We left Bergen at 11 a.m. in soft daylight, and less than two hours later, we were descending into twilight. The cabin hushed as we passed close to snow-covered mountains and fjords painted in deep blues and greys. On the horizon, the sky was streaked with dark blue, pink, and yellow, and a crescent of city lights sparkled in the distance.

It Felt Otherworldly and Was Breathtaking

After landing, we picked up our rental car and drove into the Arctic dark toward our Airbnb, a sweet red barn at the end of a fjord. Only when we arrived did we realize most shops and restaurants were closed for the December 26th Boxing Day holiday. Panic set in about where and if we would find food for the evening.

The Magic of Tromsø Begins

On top of the closures, we were all at different stages of fighting colds. I was the last to get sick, battling a sore throat and a stubborn cough, so I stayed at the cabin while the others went into town to scavenge for food.

I wandered from window to window, wondering, Would I even know if the Northern Lights appeared? Locals said the best chance was between 11 p.m. and 2 a.m., preferably with a guide to escape the light pollution.

I decided to lie down in the dark bedroom after unpacking my suitcase. I made tea and crawled into bed. Just as my head hit the pillow, I thought I saw a flicker of green outside. I jumped up, threw open the window, frigid air rushing in, and there it was, the sky had begun its dance.

A Spiritual Encounter with the Northern Lights

I forgot the cough, the fever, and the shards of glass feeling in my throat. I grabbed my puffy coat and boots, forgetting my scarf, hat, and gloves, and bolted outside.

The Arctic sky exploded in every direction: green, purple, and pink swirls twisting and stretching across the heavens. Alone in the wind and the cold, the moment felt spiritual and overwhelming. I could feel my mother’s presence, as if she were watching with me.

I stayed outside until I couldn’t feel my fingers or face. Back inside, I texted my husband to drop everything and come back. When he didn’t answer, I sent a photo. Still nothing. I called, breathless and hoarse, trying to explain.

He was hangry and frustrated, muttering that they couldn’t “see any effing thing” from town. I hung up. He was killing my Northern Lights vibe. So I went back outside, utterly euphoric. At that moment, food didn’t matter. This was magic, and I wasn’t missing it.

Northern Lights and Gas Station Pizza

Forty-five minutes later, the lights faded, and my family returned with bland sandwiches from 7-Eleven — none for me, just a dry bag of granola that felt like knives going down my raw throat. Then, just as we were settling in, someone spotted a shimmer in the sky. We rushed outside, this time bundled in full winter gear, and the show began again.

Neon-green streams arched above us, swirling like ribbons. At one point, a line of green burst into blooms of purple and pink, like a cosmic dahlia opening in slow motion.

We stood in awe, faces tilted to the heavens, the Arctic air biting but forgotten. When the lights finally disappeared, leaving only stars, we returned inside.

Later, we ate cold gas station pizza – it was delicious.

Cinnamon Buns, Reindeer, and Sámi Traditions

Over the next few days, we dove into Tromsø’s winter charm — warming up with lattes and cinnamon buns in its bustling cafés, browsing local shops, and venturing into the snowy countryside for a reindeer sleigh ride and dinner with the Sámi people.

Around a crackling fire, we heard stories of their deep connection to the Arctic, from reindeer herding to cultural traditions that have endured for centuries. Sharing a simple meal in their camp, beneath a star-streaked sky, added another layer of magic to our time in the far north.

Top Things to Do in Tromsø, Norway

If you’re planning your own Winter Arctic adventure, here are some must-do experiences:

1. Chase the Northern Lights– Hire a guide for the best spots away from light pollution, or do as we did and rent a short-term rental away from the city.
2. Sail a Fjord or Whale Watching Cruise– Experience Norway’s natural beauty from the water.
3. Ride the Fjellheisen Cable Car– For sweeping views of Tromsø and the fjords.
4. Visit the Arctic Cathedral– Stunning, modern design, especially at night.
5. Go Dog Sledding or Snowmobiling – Iconic Arctic activities with incredible views.
6. Sample Local Cuisine– From cinnamon buns, smoked salmon, and Gjetost cheese, to cozy bowls of soup and stews, there are wonderful cafes and restaurants in Tromsø.
7. Embrace Polar Nights– Walk among the festive lights and savor Tromsø’s winter fun.
8. Twilight Skiing– Hire a ski guide to take you on a ski adventure, headlamps and all.

Why Tromsø Should Be on Your Bucket List

From the ethereal descent into the Arctic Circle to the unearthly beauty of the Aurora Borealis, Tromsø gave us a holiday we’ll never forget. The town is charming and festive, with wonderful coffee houses and restaurants and many adventures to be had.

A Nourished Life by Eva Marie