The Slower Pace of Seville

After ten days on the move, with four countries and nine cities behind us, Ric and I felt a deep sense of relief as we settled into our seats on the high-speed train to Seville. What would’ve been a ten-hour drive turned into a scenic and serene five-hour ride through the Spanish countryside.

Arriving in Seville, our taxi wound through narrow streets lined with sun-washed buildings in rich hues. There was something about the city, with its Moorish-influenced architecture, street-side cafés, and the mix of locals and stylish international visitors, that felt romantic, vibrant, and effortlessly alive.

A Warm Welcome in Andalusia

I quickly fell in love with this southern region of Spain. The people of Seville were warm, welcoming, and proud of their city’s history and culture. The sun was shining, the air fragrant with the scent of Seville orange blossoms, and every corner we turned offered something beautiful to take in.

Our days were filled with exploration, and the warm weather couldn’t have been better for wandering through palaces, churches, and cobblestone streets.

Moorish Palaces and Bell Towers

One of our first stops was the stunning Alcázar of Seville, a royal palace with breathtaking architecture and lush gardens that seemed to be straight out of a dream. The influence of Moorish design was evident everywhere—from intricate tilework to arched doorways and tranquil fountains.

Next, we visited the Cathedral of Saint Mary of the See, the largest Gothic cathedral in the world. We climbed the Giralda Bell Tower, rewarded with sweeping views of the city’s terracotta rooftops. Nearby, we stepped into the Church of El Salvador, where the community was preparing their ornate floats for Semana Santa (Holy Week). This cultural and religious celebration begins in mid-April.

The Scent of Seville

One of the most charming and unforgettable features of Seville is its orange trees. They lined the streets, adorned courtyards, and filled the air with a heady, floral-citrus scent. Ric was tempted to grab one of the famed Seville oranges, but they always seemed just out of reach.

Evenings Made for Wandering

In Seville, life slows down in the most beautiful way. The art of the paseo, the traditional evening stroll, is alive and well here. As locals emerged after sunset, we joined in wandering the cobblestone streets of the old city, taking in the golden light, the scent of jasmine, and the sound of laughter spilling from cafés.

Dinner in Spain doesn’t start until well after 8 p.m., so we embraced the rhythm of late-night meals, lingering conversations, and post-dinner walks through the glowing city.

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Top Things to Do When You Travel in Seville, Spain

1. Visit the Real Alcázar of Seville
A UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the most stunning examples of Mudéjar architecture in Spain. The gardens alone are worth the trip.

2. Explore the Seville Cathedral & La Giralda
Climb the bell tower for panoramic city views and explore the vast interior of this gothic masterpiece.

3. Stroll through the Barrio Santa Cruz
The old Jewish Quarter, filled with narrow alleyways, flower-filled balconies, and picturesque plazas.

4. Experience Semana Santa or Feria de Abril (if timing allows)
Holy Week and the Spring Fair are two of Seville’s most culturally rich and visually stunning festivals.

5. Walk along the Guadalquivir River
A peaceful place to catch the sunset, lined with tapas bars and views of the historic Torre del Oro.

6. Indulge in Flamenco
Book a seat at a small local venue for an intimate and passionate performance—this is the birthplace of flamenco, after all.

7. Try authentic Andalusian cuisine
Don’t miss salmorejo (a thicker cousin of gazpacho), jamón ibérico, and local wines.

Fiesta Week in Seville: A Dazzling Celebration of Tradition

Each spring, Seville bursts into color, music, and flamenco for Feria de Abril (April Fair)—a week-long fiesta that begins two weeks after Easter. What began as a livestock fair in the 1800s has evolved into one of Spain’s most iconic celebrations.

Locals and visitors gather in traditional Andalusian dress, dance sevillanas in striped casetas (tents), ride horse-drawn carriages, and enjoy an endless array of tapas, fino sherry, and vibrant parades. From afternoon until dawn, the fairgrounds come alive with joy, heritage, and nonstop festivities.

It’s a true immersion into the soul of Seville—and an unforgettable way to experience Spanish culture at its most passionate.

WHERE TO STAY

• Barrio Santa Cruz – Central and atmospheric, near all major sights

• Arenal – Great for riverside strolls and local restaurants

• Triana – Just across the river, known for flamenco and authentic Andalusian flair

WHAT TO WEAR, or more specifically, what not to wear when visiting churches across Europe, especially active cathedrals, basilicas, and monasteries. It’s best to dress modestly out of respect. Aim to cover shoulders and knees, and avoid hats inside. Many popular sites (like St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome or the Sagrada Família in Barcelona) enforce these guidelines, and you may be turned away if not appropriately dressed. Some locations sell paper cover-ups, but I always carry a lightweight scarf or shawl that I can throw over my shoulders for when sightseeing.