After ten days of travel through four countries and nine cities, Ric and I exhaled deeply as we settled into our rental car and headed out of Seville. As much fun as Barcelona and Sevilla were, we craved quiet, and the White Hill Villages of Andalusia were exactly what we needed. It was a relaxed, scenic drive through some of Spain’s most beautiful countryside, where castles peeked through olive groves and the skies seemed impossibly blue.
As the road climbed higher, the rolling green hills gave way to patches of citrus trees and vineyards. The landscape looked like something from a painting—a patchwork of groves and orchards, dotted with ruins and whitewashed villages clinging to the hillsides.
Zahara de la Sierra – A White Hill Village
Our first stop was Zahara de la Sierra, one of the famed Pueblos Blancos (White Hill Villages). We parked next to the ancient wall surrounding the town and stepped into what felt like a fairytale.
From the moment we arrived, the atmosphere was pure magic: birds singing, church bells ringing, children playing in the schoolyard, and the sound of a choir practicing. Even classical music floated down into the valley, echoing through the mountains like a scene from a Spanish version of The Sound of Music. These hills were alive—with history and joy.
We wandered through the immaculately preserved Moorish town, a stronghold until 1407, briefly reclaimed by the Emirate of Granada in 1481, and later taken by Christian forces under Ponce de León in 1483.
Cafés and Castle Ruins
After sipping café con leche at a tiny café tucked along the winding streets, we hiked the hillside to the Moorish castle ruins overlooking the town. The trail was a switchback path lined with wild fig, apricot, lavender, rosemary, roses, and prickly pears—the scents of Andalusia mingling in the air.
At the top, we were rewarded with sweeping views of the turquoise reservoir below—a man-made lake created in 1991 to irrigate the region. We had the trail entirely to ourselves, which was a welcome slice of serenity.
The Romance of Andalusia’s Ronda at the Edge of a Gorge
Just forty minutes down the road, we arrived in Ronda, a striking town perched high above the El Tajo canyon, split in two by the Guadalevín River. The landscape here was raw and dramatic, and we quickly fell under its spell.
Our original plan was to pass through, but after just a few hours exploring the cobbled streets, we changed our minds—we wanted to soak in the natural beauty a little longer. We found a quiet hotel tucked below the canyon, where sheep grazed in the nearby fields. The silence was only broken by the occasional rooster call or the bells worn around the sheep’s necks as the herder guided his flock past the family-run Clemente Bar & Café.
Sunset Dinner, Andalusia Style
One evening, we stumbled upon a wisteria-covered entrance to a tiny restaurant at the gorge’s edge. As the sun set, we sipped local wine, sampled Spanish cheeses, and were served the best paella we’ve ever tasted. The birds soared through the canyon while peacocks strutted along the outcroppings. It was surreal and completely unforgettable.
The Soul of Ronda
Despite its tranquility, Ronda has a deep, complex history. From Neolithic settlements to Roman ruins to the Spanish Inquisition, this city has seen it all. Writers like Ernest Hemingway and Orson Welles spent summers here, drawn by its beauty and cultural richness. Many of Spain’s bullfighting traditions trace their roots to Ronda.
On our final morning, we awoke to a cliché-perfect rooster’s crow and the now-familiar blue skies of Andalusia. I took one last walk through the sleeping town. The sun had just risen over the gorge, casting a golden shimmer across the quiet stream far below.
In that moment, I felt a tug at my heart—the kind that only comes from leaving a place that has left a mark. I stood there and reminded myself: be present, breathe it in, and remember.
And I do hope—someday—that Ric and I find our way back to this beautiful corner of the world.
7 Things to Do Around Ronda & Zahara de la Sierra
Visit the Puente Nuevo & El Tajo Gorge – Ronda’s most iconic site, the Puente Nuevo bridge spans a dramatic 120-meter-deep gorge. Walk across it, view it from below, and explore the surrounding viewpoints for jaw-dropping photo ops.
Hike to Zahara’s Moorish Castle – Climb up to the ruins of Zahara’s ancient Moorish castle for panoramic views of the town, the valley, and the sparkling turquoise reservoir below. The peaceful hike is surrounded by wild herbs and flowers.
Explore Ronda’s Historic Quarter – Wander through Ronda’s old town (La Ciudad), with cobbled lanes, quiet plazas, and elegant mansions. Don’t miss the Casa del Rey Moro, with its hidden water mine descending into the gorge.
Enjoy Local Cuisine & Tapas – Try traditional Andalusian dishes like venado (venison) or salmorejo at local taverns. In Zahara, stop by a tiny café for a strong café con leche and local olive oil on fresh bread. In Ronda, check out Clemente Bar & Café or one of the scenic cliffside restaurants.
Take a Scenic Drive Through the White Villages Route – Drive between Zahara, Grazalema, and Ronda on winding mountain roads through Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park. The route is dotted with idyllic whitewashed villages, olive groves, and rolling green hills.
Visit Plaza de Toros – Ronda – One of the oldest bullrings in Spain, the Plaza de Toros is a beautiful Neoclassical structure with a small but fascinating museum detailing Ronda’s role in the history of Spanish bullfighting.
Kayak or Picnic at the Zahara-El Gastor Reservoir – This bright blue lake below Zahara is perfect for a relaxing afternoon. Rent a kayak or pack a picnic and enjoy the peaceful surroundings with views of the mountains and the castle above.